Where there’s a will

We were so glad we were not cycling yesterday evening/night as the rain in San Sebastián was biblical. We thought that the weather had taken the predicted turn for the worse and we were pleased we had brought forward the Deba stage. However, by breakfast time the sun was breaking through and we were able to enjoy a gentle potter around the old town of San Sebastián. For the first time on any of our caminos we started by a stroll along the beach at La Concha.

The old town (Parte Vieja) is very compact and is almost the only remnant of earlier times as the city has suffered the depredations of many wars, most notably during the Peninsular War when the Duke of Wellington besieged Napoleon’s forces, finally broke through and burned and looted the town for a week.

Fortunately, the church of San Vicente (1507) survived and as we approached this morning we could hear the organ being played. Widor’s Toccata filled the vast space and massively enhanced the experience as we explored its interior.

We were particularly taken by a recent addition to one of the external facades. A contemporary pieta by a Basque sculptor, Jorge Oteiza.

Eventually it was time to discover if our bikes had survived the night in Deba and so we once again boarded a Euskotren which shuttles along the coast between San Sebastián and Bilbao. All was well and we arrived along with the rain which has decided to set in. The only sensible thing to do was to head for the bar for some tortillas.

Finally, we want to thank an anonymous donor. Shortly before we set off from Stirling an Amazon parcel arrived: a mystery package.

We have failed to identify the kind person who thoughtfully sent this, but we’re sure he or she must be a cyclist. When one spends a long period in the saddle day in and day out chamois cream is an absolute essential. Indeed, even after just two days it is evident that this wonderful balm will save yours truly from severe pain. So, whoever you are thank you!

Tomorrow we are anticipating a damp ride to Gernika. It promises to be another substantial section with sustained climbing. Phew, thank goodness for that chamois cream!