Where there’s a will

Our journey today really started yesterday as we attended the Pilgrim Mass which is held every day at 7 30pm in the Iglesia de Santa Maria la Real de la Corte, and which is physically part of the Cathedral complex . It was built in the middle of the sixteenth century and was linked to the neighbouring Monastery of San Vicente. It was much more of a working church and less a museum than the Cathedral. It provided real candles (unlike the Cathedral which only had faux electric candles) and therefore gave us the opportunity to remember our friend, Pat, in a special way before we attended the Mass.

At the conclusion of Mass pilgrims setting off on the Camino Primitivo were invited to come to the altar for the blessing. Seven of us came forward and were each handed a copy of the Pilgrim’s Blessing in their own language: in yesterday’s case, Dutch, German, Spanish and English.

It was a brief ceremony but nonetheless moving. We had experienced a similar moment on our first Camino when we departed Le Puy en Velay, and it brought home to us both, once again, the complex richness of the Camino.

We’ve reproduced the blessing below: the text on the left hand side, in its simplicity, captures much of the essence of the Camino. We both walk a great deal, and have undertaken a good number of cycle tours. These journeys are always memorable, but there is an extra dimension to the Camino which leaves us both feeling very privileged.

An example of this arose last Thursday evening in Villaviciosa. We had sought out a small tapas bar for a light supper, and two other pilgrims came to the table next to us. Mariana and Jean-Paul were walking the Camino del Norte having started in Donostia-San Sebastian. Unlike us they spoke fluent Spanish, had fascinating international life stories, and radiated a joy that was utterly infectious. We felt we had just found two new and great friends, and exchanged contact details. Their chosen Camino is hard, and strong bonds can be forged through the sharing of common experiences. We very much hope to meet again.

We have a GPX file loaded on to my Garmin GPS which made it easy for me to find the route right from the hotel door. The plotted route was clear. Once again, this time because it was Sunday morning, the traffic was extremely modest and,despite the cold and dark overcast conditions, we made quick work of Oviedo’s city streets…….until our plot took us to a pile of rubble covered in brambles!

Whilst I was carefully studying my device for a workaround an elderly gentleman walking his dog came over to us and, with much arm waving, izquierdas and derechas, helped put us back on the right track. Soon we were tackling the mist covered hills and leaving the outskirts of Oviedo behind.

After a sustained pull to a col we encountered a second navigational challenge. Neither our maps nor our plot showed a complex new road junction complete with a roundabout. The land fell away from us sharply in all directions and I was concerned that the wrong choice could entail a re-run of the concrete surfaced lanes we had encountered on the final day into Oviedo. Once again a local gentleman appeared who advised us that our preferred route would lead us to into difficulty. We decided to take his advice, which involved a slightly further distance. His suggested route was very peaceful and brought us to the tiny Capilla de Fatima, which offered a self-stamp opportunity. A small tin, complete with ink-pad and stamp, was tucked into the niche on the right hand side. I was well pleased!

The heavy overcast weather combined with the green and hilly landscape conspired to give a very Scottish feel to the journey and, with no more twists to the plot, we were soon almost gliding on the cycle path into Grado.

The centre of Grado was a heaving mass of humanity as Sunday is market day, and Grado’s market is the biggest in Asturias. The fresh food looked stunning, and we wished we had the capacity to take home some garlic and beans.

We might need both tomorrow as we penetrate deeper into the Cordillera Cantabrica. If we don’t lose the plot it promises to be a mammoth day of riding – the biggest lift yet. We’re hanging on to that pilgrim blessing.