Where there’s a will

We expected today to be a bit complicated but, as with all adventures, unexpected complications can arise. But more of that later. Today’s journey was bracketed by two ferry crossings: the first from Laredo to Santona right at the start of the day, and the second near its conclusion taking us right into the heart of Santander.

It was drizzling a little as we made our way beside the very long beach of Laredo which ends in a spit of sand across from the small town of Santona. We guessed we had arrived at the ferry ‘terminal’ when we saw a huddle of damp pilgrims on the sand. It was a strange and slightly disturbing sight as if some had finally given up and might, at any moment, simply walk into the sea.

Shortly after 9am (the scheduled time) a little boat appeared and simply ploughed onto the shore. A kind of gangway was lowered and we waited until the walkers had boarded as we wondered if we would all be able to get on; the bikes were not exactly easy to fit in!

Nonetheless, with the help of the boatman, we managed to get ourselves and our bikes safely on without falling off the gangway into the water. It was a close thing as the gangway was barely two feet wide and our handlebars could catch the handrail which was only on one side. Health and safety isn’t a high priority in this part of Cantabria.

The push across the sandy beach hadn’t done a great deal for the efficiency of our bikes, and for the first time we began to think that a full on downpour might be helpful!

Getting the bikes back to the road proved a challenge too, as the landing point is dependent on the tide and today it was quite low so, you guessed, we had to carry them up steps. Indeed we’re beginning to think that this is a new kind of penance for cycling pilgrims: to carry their bikes to Santiago!

Eventually, once we had sorted ourselves out, we set off through a damp and sleepy Santona along the coastal wetlands that characterise this part of Cantabria. A rather fine, and relatively contemporary, Santiago made us pause and smile. We sympathise with his slightly disbelieving stare.

For a good number of kilometres we wended our way through a complex web of lanes which threaded the salt marshes and beaches until at Noja, with its bizarre beach of golden sand punctuated by strange eruptions of sinister rock, we turned away from the coast for a while.

The route climbed steadily into the foothills of the Cantabrian Mountains offering wonderful vistas across rich farmland. Despite a number of small villages there were few places to have a coffee and a break, so we were pleased to come across a campsite with a small cafeteria which was open. Linda had a slight upset parking her bike on slippery tiles but order was restored and a good coffee was had as well.

Unfortunately as soon as we set off again it became clear that the fall of the bike had caused some damage as the front disc brake rotor was slightly rubbing.

I pulled over and upended the bike to get a better look and, apparently from nowhere, perhaps even from the middle of nowhere, a group of locals appeared.

They immediately insisted on helping!

It turned out that they had spotted us as we had passed their house about forty five minutes earlier. I had returned a jolly wave from someone in the conservatory. Angela (in the purple jacket) and her partner Carlos (in the blue jacket) are committed cycle tourists, using a tandem. Carlos was very knowledgeable but spoke virtually no English, and Angela hailed from Germany and spoke brilliant English. Carlos insisted on returning to his house to get a spanner which he wanted to use. He appeared about a quarter of an hour later in his camper van and produced a full toolkit! In no time at all the wheel was running freely, and we agreed that we needed to get it checked again when convenient.

After many thank yous, handshakes, and three cheek kisses – for Linda – we left them to continue to enjoy an uneventful Sunday afternoon, as we attempted to do the same.

Linda’s bike gave no further trouble as we quickly returned to the coast. Soon we were crossing the bridge between Somo and Pedrena, with a backdrop of very moody mountains.

The sun welcomed us to the ferry terminal, which was very marginally more convincing than the first one earlier in the day.

After a short wait we were back on board a ferry to Santander. We hear you say, “Wait a minute, didn’t you arrive by ferry in Santander just over a week ago?” Perhaps we will be able to make sense of all this on a pilgrimage!

Tomorrow we have two tasks: to get to Santillana del Mar, and to find a bike shop. Unfortunately, it’s a public holiday in Santander in honour of its patron saint, The Virgin of the Sea. We need a patron saint for cyclist; any advance on Saint Christopher?

Data: distance 52.5kms

ascent 580m

Totals to date: distance 292.25kms

ascent 5349m